Sewing Shorts – VI – Back Pocket

Pocket Hider Piece Pattern.

Pocket Hider Piece Placement Area on Pocket Piece.

Pocket Hider Piece Fabric Folded at one end 3/8″.

Pocket Hider Piece Placement Area on Pocket Piece Fabric. 4.5″ inches from the top of the pocket piece to the folded edge of pocket hider piece.
Notice that right side of pocket piece faces the wrong side of the pocket hider piece.

Pocket Hider Piece Sewed on to Pocket Piece. Notice the stitch areas.

Attach Interfacing on Back Leg Piece.
It is 2″ by 6″ wide.

Hand Stitch the slit and the edges.
It is very important to stitch the edges for later.
Notice that the slit is slightly curved so that it sits neatly on the hip curve.

This is how hand stitch looks from the wrong side.

Fold Back Leg Piece to Half Vertically to see if the dart is marked right.

Mark the end of the dart 5mm above the slit so that it does not get cut while cutting the slit.
Stitch the dart taking care that backtacks fall inside the dart.

This is how the dart looks.

Note the exact place of slit under the dart ending.
Do more hand stitching on that point.

Closeup.
Note the exact place of slit under the dart ending.
Do more hand stitching on that point.

Align pocket piece slit line with back leg slit line.
Wrong sides face each other.

Pin pocket piece to back leg piece.

Pocket piece on back leg piece.

Pocket Lips Piece Pattern.

Take the pocket lips piece.
It already has slit line marked.
Also a rectangle whose top and bottom edges are 1/8″ apart from the slit line.
The edges match exactly with the back leg slit line edges and the pocket piece slit line edges.

Place the pocket lips piece on back leg piece, right sides facing each other.
Center of slit lines pinned making sure that the dart is not included.

Pin more.

Stitch around the slit. Exactly on the edges, 1/8″ inch from slit line on top and bottom.
Start at center so back-tacks are not on edges.
Stitch very slowly.

Closeup.

Closeup from wrong side.

Cut the slit with sharp scissors until the beginning of the flap.
Make sure to use very sharp scissors as there are many layers of fabric (Back leg with interfacing, pocket lips piece with interfacing, pocket piece)

Slit Cut.

Flaps Cut.

Insert hand from the inside.

Pull the top and bottom edges of pocket hider.

Pull it through the slit.

Pull it more until the entire pocket hider piece comes to the inside.

This is how it looks now from the right side.

Take it to the ironing board and PRESS OPEN THE SEAMS with the tip of the iron.

Press open seams is the most important thing to do here.

Press the entire pocket hider piece now.

Stretch the pocket hider piece at the edge of the slit towards the outer edge and do a hand stitch the edge to the pocket piece.

Hand stitching ONLY TO THE POCKET PIECE.

This is how it looks from the right side now.
A big gap.
We need to cover this gap now.

Fold the lower edge around half an inch.

This fold will now cover the gap.

Gap lessened with the fold.

Pin the piece now to keep that fold intact.

Fold the bottom edge of the pocket hider piece 3/8”.

Fold the bottom edge 3/8″ and top stitch.

After top stitch.

Now we need to take care of the flaps.

The flaps need to be taken out fully and need to be taught.
Turn the back side piece sides to inside so to be able to stitch on the flaps.

Stitch on flaps on both sides.

Stitches on flaps from closeup.

The edges of the pocket opening need a top stitch now.

Turn to the right side and do a top stich on all edges of the pocket opening.
Start at one of the shorter edges so that back tacks do not show on longer edges.